NY Times columnist at UW
Port Townsend GetawayGet Away Car: Port Townsend
If you’re looking to get out of the city for a bit, there are a lot of easy day trip destinations you can head out to for cheap. Whether you want to get away for a day, spend the night, or make a weekend of it, the Pacific Northwest has a plethora of great destinations within easy driving distance of the Seattle area.
Of these places, Port Townsend, situated on the Olympic Peninsula, is one of my favorites. Like Seattle, the town is right on the water — which means mellow weather (if a bit windy) and great views. Yet Port Townsend is a small town, with a feel that you just can’t get in Seattle.
Although there’s a Safeway, a McDonalds and a couple of gas stations, most of the town in chain store-free, leaving visitors to enjoy new places they can’t find anywhere else.
The touristy area of Port Townsend is divided up into two districts: Uptown and Downtown. I don’t like Uptown. There are a lot of nice old buildings to look at, but other than that, the whole place is chockfull of overpriced restaurants and shops (or “galleries,” or whatever they’re called). I like Downtown. Downtown is, yes, down the hill from Uptown, basically right along the water. It has shops and restaurants too, but tends to be on the less pretentious and thus cheaper side. Most of the hot spots are found on the main drag (Water Street), or just off it on an adjacent street.
Some notable attractions:
Tyler Street Coffee House
Don’t bother coming to Port Townsend on Sunday or Monday if you want to check out this tasty spot, as the place is only open Tuesday through Saturday. It’s worth rearranging your schedule.
In addition to having the best coffee in town (roasted by Seattle’s own Caffe Vita), Tyler Street has lots more to offer. The pastry case is amazing — moderately priced, but oh so good; don’t miss the almond croissants. If you’re hungry, dig in: their lunch options include a variety of hearty sandwiches and soups. While I’ve never gotten around to trying them, if looks are everything, their grub’s got it all. Serving it up are baristas who are friendly even if you’re not a regular.
Like nearly everything else in Port Townsend, Tyler Street closes early (about 6 p.m.), so don’t plan on making a night of it.
Nifty Fiftys
Nifty Fiftys is a restaurant with, you guessed it, a 1950s theme. They have all the standard burger joint fare — burgers, chicken, grilled cheese, fries — along with old time soda fountain treats like splits, malts, shakes and cones, in lots of different flavors. I’ll be honest: their food isn’t outstanding, but it is pretty damn OK.
The real fun comes from all the décor. While I doubt any of it is from anywhere near the ‘50s, it’s kind of fun to look at. They’ve got the jukebox (with the mini ones on each table to order songs from), Coca Cola old-school straw dispensers, vinyl stools and booths, and groovy neon signs. And their waiters are decked out in poodle skirts and, um, whatever the guys were supposed to wear in the ‘50s.
Stop by for a grilled cheese and a shake and see what I mean.
Otter Crossing Café
www.ottercrossing.com
A great option for breakfast: creative and tasty, with a northwest flair. The menu features omelets, pancakes and more (including vegetarian picks), most with atypical ingredients that still work really well. The lunch menu has plenty of fish, sandwiches and salads. (I’ve only tried the breakfast stuff, but it all looks good.) Breakfast is served all day, from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., while lunch begins at 11 a.m. and goes ‘til 3. The café also offers a bakery, juice bar, espresso and a selection of northwest beer and wine.
Part of the experience isn’t in the food — it’s in the location. The restaurant is right on the water, near the marina. And the name isn’t just to be cute; often there are indeed otters hanging out right on the docks.
Elevated Ice Cream
www.elevatedicecream.com
Mmm, yummy. Lots of ice cream flavors, all made fresh right on site: 29 flavors, including two sherbets, two non-fat yogurts and seven non-dairy Italian ices. Their flavors rotate seasonally; last time I was there they had pumpkin ice cream — highly recommended. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., it’s one of Port Townsend’s late-night hangouts. Bring some cards or a chess set, sit down, and enjoy yourself.
Adjacent to the ice cream parlor is a candy and gift shop — fun for browsing.
If you plan to stay overnight in Port Townsend, you have quite a few options. (It is a bit of a tourist trap, after all.) The Downtown area offers a number of older Victorian-style hotels — not my bag, so I haven’t tested them out, but they’re there nonetheless. The Port Townsend vicinity has bed and breakfast inns, “getaways” (whatever that means), hostels and state parks (for camping). My favorites, however, are the motels: cheap and functional.
The only place I’ve ever stayed in Port Townsend is one I’ve stayed a few times, the Harborside Inn (330 Benedict St., www.harborside-inn.com). It’s not as glamorous as the Web site makes it look, but I like it because the beds are comfy, the rooms have a view of the water, it’s cheap for the area, and you can step right outside to smoke. Oh, and they give you a free (though kinda crappy) breakfast.
If you’re going to be in the area for more than a day, consider heading to Port Angeles as well. About an hour west of Port Townsend, Port Angeles offers a few more “big city” attractions (bowling alley! Wal-Mart!), along with the smaller shops and cafes you’d expect.
For more on Port Townsend, including seasonal events, visit www.PortTownsend.com.